![]() ![]() I think the Scotchbrite works so well here because the open weave allows the dust to get out. I understand that this is because the ebony dust is quite hard and abrasive by itself, and will embed itself in the sandpaper, cutting coarser than the sandpapers' abrasive. You can go crazy trying to polish ebony with fine sandpaper. The White Scotchbrite will take the wood up to a mirror gloss. Use them over a rubber block, with pressure and elbow grease, again only in the direction of the grain. As it is exposed to light it turns deep purple. When purpleheart is freshly cut it ranges in color from gray to a brownish purple. It is dense, with a Janka hardness of 2520. Its native range is from Mexico to Southern Brazil. I usually use Green, then Gray, then White. Purpleheart lumber is an exotic hardwood prized for its brilliant purple color. Finish up with ScotchBrite-style woven abrasives. Fine sand with 320 and 400 Stearated paper on a rubber block, only in the direction of the grain, to remove the last file marks.ģ. Finish up the smoothing with a Smooth or even a #2 Swiss file.Ģ. It's faster, and doesn't leave deep random scratches. ![]() Do most of the shaping with sharp files, not coarse sandpaper. ![]() The finish will significantly darken the color (although it's still quite beautiful), but then it will brighten up somewhat over the next week or two.īy the way, here's my favorite technique for smoothing woods hard like Purple Heart, Padauk, Ebony, etc. I use Stewart-MacDonald's Fingerboard Oil, which is a special blend for instrument use, but Minwax or Olympic Oil-Based polyurethane will work too. When I use Purple Heart and Padauk for guitar fingerboards, I bring them up to a gloss, and then give them one or two light coats of a hardening polyurethane "oil" finish. The bare wood can be polished up to a gloss, which in many cases is all you need. Both of these woods are almost self-finishing, because of their inherent high resin content. ![]()
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